Three Perfect Days of Van Life Bliss in Ithaca: A Buttermilk Falls Review & Finger Lakes Frolic!
Upstate New York. Ah, the very words conjure images of verdant landscapes, shimmering lakes, and… my college playground! My training ground, maturing ground, stomping ground, and about everything else in between. How I’ve missed thee, my leafy, waterfall-laden bliss inducing terra. Never ever when I went there did I think I’d be living the van life and traveling through Upstate New York on a grand New York Van Life adventure!
After a week of family fun in the Thousand Islands (and yes, you can click here to read all about that adventure), I decided to roll my trusty van into the Finger Lakes region and pay a visit to my alma mater, Cornell University in Ithaca, NY. Candidly, I wasn’t even going to blog about this one. This was slated to be my private, sentimental journey down memory lane – a personal emotional oasis I didn’t want to blab about on the worldwide web. This was my private van life – the part I don’t share on a blog or vlog.
But as Odie (my trusty co-pilot, for those wondering) and I hiked the glorious gorge and rim trails at Buttermilk Falls State Park right from our Campsite, I felt an almost overwhelming compulsion to share. It felt selfish, unjust even, to withhold this natural, amazing landscape from you. Plus, if you’re living the van life and find yourself in New York, I want you to see just how truly fantastic this area can be, so you can plan your own epic adventure accordingly!
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The Finger Lakes Region: More Than Just "Wine Country”.
The Finger Lakes region of Upstate New York is like nature’s handprint – 11 long, slender lakes stretching north to south, carved by glaciers and brimming with beauty. It’s renowned for its world-class wineries (especially spectacular Rieslings based on my many, many samples in my drinking days), but it’s so much more than just a wine-tasting paradise.
Think stunning gorges and waterfalls (Ithaca is gorges, after all!), charming small towns, and endless opportunities for outdoor recreation. From hiking and biking along picturesque trails to kayaking, paddleboarding, and sailing on the serene lakes, there’s something to tickle everyone’s fancy. The region boasts a vibrant agricultural scene, incredible farm-to-table dining, and a thriving arts and culture community. It’s basically a nature lover’s, foodie’s, and history buff’s dream all rolled into one.
Van Life Basecamp Bliss: Buttermilk Falls State Park Campground Review.
When I was an undergrad, I spent every summer I possibly could in Ithaca. I mean, duh – I’m from Houston. 100+ degrees or 80 during the day and 60s at night? Seems like a no-brainer. Add the gorges, the incredible waterfalls, and the natural “beaches” that form, and you have a recipe for sheer undergrad delight.
Buttermilk Falls State Park was one of our absolute go-tos for a day at the “beach,” enjoying the cool, refreshing water from the falls. Seriously, you don’t want to miss a trip to these falls. This is epic-level stuff that will leave you speechless.
As a campground, Buttermilk Falls is truly pretty. The campsites are lovely and deeply forested with thick tree canopy cover. Odie and I woke up to a view down a hill, feeling as though we were in a private, secluded area – even though we had neighbors on both sides! The sounds of nature, the fresh air, and that glorious tree cover made for some perfect van life bliss.
However, I’ll be honest, the campground does lack a bit in the “amenities” department. The bathhouse has two showers with rather minimal privacy and no temperature control on the water (I mean it was lukewarm…). The restrooms, though, have been consistently clean. My campsite didn’t have electric, water, or sewer hookups, but there is a convenient dump station and several potable water stations available (with a 15-minute hookup max for water). On a side note – those water stations while having connections for a hose also have hand turned levers that won’t stay open unless you hold them open (or use some rocks and pry it open as I did). Annoying to say the least, but you can definitely make it work!
I opted to leave the van parked at the campground (parking at Cornell is notoriously bad, and even worse for oversized vehicles) and used Uber to get around. A trip to Cornell ran me around $25.00 each way, which is a bit on the high side, but absolutely worth it to avoid the parking headaches. And frankly, it paled in comparison to the $300 I blissfully spent at the Cornell Store – GO BIG RED! Alumni pride, baby! Yeah, they really get you when you’re feeling sentimental!
Buttermilk Falls Favorite Photos
Ithaca, New York: Still Weird (in the Best Way Possible).
Ithaca is a special place, indeed. When I lived in Austin, we had bumper stickers proudly declaring “Keep Austin Weird.” I truly believe Ithaca could equally adopt that mantra. Back in my day, it was a quaint small town fighting with every last breath to repel Walmart and all the chains that would inevitably follow.
And fight it did, valiantly and with distinction! But alas, it lost the war. Now, Ithaca feels more like a bustling small city, with mid-rises where six stories used to be the absolute max (a limit long abandoned). It has indeed embraced the inevitable Petsmart, Walmart, Dick’s, and all those lovely big boxes made of ticky-tacky.
Ithaca & The Commons: A Stroll Down (Memory) Lane.
The Commons has certainly changed since I was a young, dumb undergrad strutting around with an over-inflated opinion of myself! (Just kidding… mostly.) But it’s still a neat stop and well worth an hour or so of your time. Enjoy the street performers, browse the unique shops, and soak in the local vibe.
Oh, and while you’re there, you absolutely must…
Grab a "Hot Truck" Sandwich at the Short Stop Deli!
Ah, Hot Truck. The late-night study and party food favorite of literally generations of Cornellians. The legendary Hot Truck used to park right outside of West Campus every night, starting around 9:00 PM, and Cornellians would line up for its deliciousness for over 50 years, beginning in 1960.
Allegedly the inventor of the French Bread Pizza, its homemade sauce and meatballs between delicious garlic bread still do not disappoint. The truck’s gone, but the legacy lives on through the Short Stop Deli. Have a sandwich, and ask for “sunshine” (that’s crushed-up Garlic Lays potato chips baked on top). You will not be disappointed. Trust me on this one. So on your way to the Commons, swing by Short Stop Deli and grab a bite – I promise you will thank me!
Ithaca Shopping: Easy & Cheap Van Life Refuel Stop!
Unlike when I was here and all we had was a K-Mart (yes, seriously, I wasn’t kidding when I said we fought Walmart off!), there are now plenty of chains to shop at. You’ll find an REI, Dick’s Sporting Goods, and my favorite grocery store next to Publix – Wegman’s. So, this is a fantastic van life recharge station! Plus, because college students are notoriously broke, some basic services like laundry and haircuts are surprisingly cheap (relatively speaking, of course). So, consider doing some “life stuff” here, like getting a fresh trim. Also. The Commons, as mentioned above, has some very unique stores and offers an opportunity to find unique gifts/souvenirs.
Cornell University: My (Gorgeous) Alma Mater!
My alma mater! It’s hard to imagine a prettier, more tranquil, or academically inspiring place to go to school. I walked past this Gorge and waterfall everyday on my way to class my Freshman year – and I basked on the side of that lake every summer for my glorious time at Cornell!
The old adage “Ithaca is gorges” is perfectly illustrated right on campus. As a pedestrian, if you enter from Collegetown or the north side of campus to the main university grounds, you will inevitably cross a gorge with a rushing waterfall. It’s a daily dose of natural wonder!
The architecture of Cornell is significant precisely because it somewhat lacked a master plan. Unlike certain other Ivy League schools with their very uniform (and dare I say, sometimes boring?) buildings, Cornell’s campus grew in a sporadic and somewhat unplanned manner from its very beginning. Which, oddly, adds to its unique charm! The sheer beauty of the Art Quad, the majestic Uris Library, and their timelessness cannot be understated. You’ll find everything from gothic towers to modern marvels, all harmoniously coexisting. With over 745 acres and a diverse range of architectural styles, it’s a living museum!
There is actually a secret story of how Ezra Cornell once took a dynamiting class in New York City – and that accounts for some secret features of the Cornell campus – including its architectural “plan”. If you want to know more, drop me a comment and I’ll tell you the “secret” story that very few people, even Cornellians, actualy know!
If you appreciate college campuses in general, you are truly cheating yourself if you don’t make a stop by Cornell and wander its stunning grounds. Free tours are often offered daily (check the Cornell visitor’s website for details!), and I highly recommend it.
While You're Visiting Cornell, Here Are My Top Things to Do:
- Grab a bagel at CTB (Collegetown Bagels) for breakfast. An Ithaca institution!
- Grab a meal at a dining hall. Yes, seriously! Cornell has a well-earned reputation for having some of the best college campus food in the country. It’s not just glorified cafeteria food; it’s genuinely delicious and often locally sourced.
- Stop by and have an ice cream at Cornell Dairy. As a pre-eminent agriculture school, Cornell has its own herds of happy cows. And those happy cows produce some truly excellent milk, which, in turn, forms some really good ice cream. A must-try!
- Visit Uris Library – and in particular, go upstairs to the A.D. White Library. This stunning room will transport you back over a hundred years. You’ll feel smarter just for having walked into its hallowed, book-lined walls. It’s like something out of a Harry Potter movie!
- Walk to North Campus and explore the gorge. The sheer power and beauty of the waterfalls are truly mesmerizing.
Cornell University Favorite Photos
Other Fun Things to Do in the Finger Lakes Area:
While I don’t drink now, I certainly used to. Sometimes with great gusto and in large quantities! The Finger Lakes region boasts some truly amazing wines, particularly their Rieslings and other whites. Wine trails and tasting opportunities abound, so if you’re a oenophile, you’re in for a treat.
And where there’s good wine, you typically find good culinary exploration opportunities, and this area is no exception. Thanks to a robust tourism industry and the advantages of having several major colleges nearby, the Finger Lakes region and Ithaca offer some truly amazing dining experiences, from casual to fine dining. Candidly – the region is so pretty in the Summer and Fall that this is one of the few areas I actually just like driving around! Frm quaint small towns to farms and Vineyards, its just a special area!
Additionally, while the water is undeniably cold, you have several large, stunning lakes that allow for rowing, sailing, paddle boarding, and just about any other recreational on-the-water opportunity you can imagine. Don’t be afraid to take the plunge!
Ty's Takeaways: Don't Judge a State by its (Big) City!
After my awesome riding at Blue Mountain Resort in Pennsylvania, which you can read about here, I definitely needed a break. And my week in the Thousand Islands (click here to read about that trip) was definitely a good start! Coming to New York State was a great van life decision.
When most van lifers think of New York State, they often conjure images of high taxes, expensive fuel, crowded cities, and restrictive gun laws that can make us feel less than welcome. I would strongly encourage you to look past that initial impression.
While states like Vermont and Maine are often crowded during the summer, and campgrounds (especially those in the Thousand Trails system) in those states are frequently full, Upstate New York may offer you some incredible opportunities to explore a gorgeous area of the country ("Ithaca is gorges"!) with far less crowds and stress. The weather as I'm writing this is high sixties at night and high seventies/low eighties during the day – and it's mid-summer! What more could you ask for?
So pack your bags, fire up the van, and get ready for some Finger Lakes fantasticness! You won't regret it.
Thanks for reading.
Go Well. Travel Well. Do Well.
~ Ty & Odie
P.S, You can always check out my destinations and Itinerary Pages to know where I've been, where I'm headed, and see state-by-state info. Click Here to Hit Up That Page.
Chasing great mountain biking, camping smart, and living full-time in an RV. Hard-won wisdom. Zero fluff. Live Free. Adventure Often
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Ithaca has a notorious homeless encampment behind Home Depot. It’s had some well-known problems (just Google “Ithaca homeless encampment” if you’re curious). I would strongly advise avoiding that area for overnight parking. iOverlander has some stealth camping locations listed, but there are also many Harvest Host opportunities within a reasonable proximity. If staying at Buttermilk Falls State Park isn’t your jam, I would definitely consider one of those options. I would generally avoid many residential areas, particularly those with a lot of students and/or professors, as parking can be tight and less welcome.
A quick heads-up on New York State firearm laws: New York State has very restrictive firearm laws on possession, even within your motor vehicle. While I am not giving a legal opinion (even though I am a lawyer!), I personally question whether these laws will withstand judicial scrutiny, especially with a modern court. I believe they are so restrictive as to violate several constitutional provisions, but that’s a long discussion for another day. However, be aware of the fact that it is basically illegal to possess a handgun in NY State for all practical intents and purposes if you are from out of state, and behave accordingly. Upstate NY is actually fairly conservative in many parts, so the probability of someone looking to make an issue is generally small. Just be aware of NY State gun laws when you enter the state.
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I started writing this blog as a way to capture the adventurous and free lifestyle I’m privileged to live. I’ve traveled to over 28 countries and 35 U.S States. I’ve lived aboard in multiple countries and averaged over 100 days a year of travel for work. I’ve skied and hiked all over the world – and my new obsession is mountain biking.
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